Chaat-lovers of Chennai look at Pani-puri with Nostalgia

Images of the dearly missed snack (source: Google Images)

On the bustling streets of Purasawalkam, amidst the chaos of cars and bikes honking for space, and numerous bargaining battles, a food-lover emerges on the side lane. As the noise of the surroundings reduces, one can hear the crackling of pani-puris from a small chaat cart at the corner of a crossroad. But today, as we walked along the lanes with our masks on, the streets were deserted, and our beloved chaat carts were missing.

Towards the end of March, the sudden announcement of lockdown due to Coronavirus brought various changes to our lives. The new reality of the lockdown began with a sense of restlessness that slowly changed to nostalgia for the outside world. More importantly, it turned people’s attention inward, resulting in a microscopic perspective. It made us realize the value of little things, like a plate of pani-puri that we once took for granted. Although the dish is from North Indian cuisine, many relished this snack in Chennai and started to miss it during the lockdown.

“I used to have pani-puri once every three days. I never thought it was a big deal,” said Raghu, a 10th-grade student who continued, “but with the lockdown, I miss having it with my friends. We tried to make it at home but it was a total disaster.”

Chennai is home to diverse cultures and cuisines as well as to migrants from across the country. We know how badly COVID-19 affected such people and their livelihood. Many migrant workers ended up on the streets with no homes and jobs. A recent report in The New Indian Express stated that 2.5 lakh migrant workers had to leave Tamil Nadu during the lockdown. Since most chaat shops and carts were run by migrants from North India, their absence was dearly missed by many pani-puri lovers. The absence of this unique culture and cuisine brought to us by migrant workers, has now caused a void in the mindscape of Chennai as a whole.

More recently, the Government of Tamil Nadu announced a relaxation of the lockdown and some of these stalls have resumed business. Though many people have adapted to the new reality of masks and sanitizers, and are making every attempt to resume normal life with some precautions, some are still scared to step outside and taste their favourite snack.

“Initially, I was really scared to step out of my home even after the lockdown was relaxed. Although I noticed many of the stalls being revived and sanitised by local sellers, the taste was not the same when I visited their place,” commented Nirmala, on pani-puri stalls set up by local people. She continued, “The bhaiya, who used to maintain the store, would make sure the last piece was a perfect chukka puri, but now the stall-keeper asked me what I was talking about."

Today, several migrants are returning to Chennai with the hope of a new beginning. Chaat sellers probably don't know how badly we missed this little snack during lockdown. Now, as the stalls are reopening, many chaat lovers are waiting to hold their plate of pani-puri once again.

*Names have been changed for privacy purposes.

Sources:

https://www.newindianexpress.com/states/tamil-nadu/2020/may/31/with-business-reopening-post-covid-lockdown-need-of-tamil-nadus-migrant-labourers-arises-2150257.html

Editors: V Samyuktha, Evita Vincy